Your perspective is NOT your dog's perspective.Your ability to understand what your dog may be thinking enhances your skill as a trainer.
Your perspective is NOT your dog's perspective.
Your ability to understand what your dog may be thinking enhances your skill as a trainer.
In order to get started in dog agility your dog must have an understanding of basic informal obedience. In agility your dog will need to be able to move freely from side to side staying within a manageable parameter. He also needs to understand basic commands like stay, down, off and “attention” or “watch me”. Training the long down allows you to scout the course and in advanced agility courses you will want to be able to direct your dog without having to be near him. Learning to “down” your dog from a distance is an exercise that can help build trust and confidence for working away from your dog. Unlike formal obedience, in dog agility you need to work on either side of the dog. This means that right from the start you should be working with the dog your the left and on your right. In dog agility you will always be looking for the shortest distances from obstacle to obstacle for both you and the dog. Coordinating the moves for a smooth and flowing run is the ultimate goal.
Even if you have no equipment at all there are simple exercises you can do to begin to create this sense of flow and coordinated movement. Try walking with your dog at your side then, using a soft tasty treat in hand, have him switch directions behind you by switching the treat to the other hand then continue walking with the dog on the other side. The same can be done in front of you. Or with the dog on one side, exchange the treat to the other hand and you change direction the opposite way inviting the dog to follow you.
There are many training techniques for each obstacle, which can vary with the type and personality of your pooch and for the particular obstacle. Whichever techniques you choose, it helps to set goals for you and your dog, and then break down the process into small, manageable steps.
Your dog cannot make a mistake when you are both first learning agility, so don't get frustrated with her. Every obstacle is new to your dog and she can't be expected to understand what you want her to do at first. Keep your dog safe, and don't push her beyond her capabilities. Your objective is to shape the behavior with each obstacle, through a series of small steps.
Never assume your dog knows what you want from him. Sometimes dogs get confused, even with steps they have done correctly in the past. Every step in training is a challenge to understand what your dog is thinking and perceiving and an exercise in awareness of your own conscious and unconscious communications toward your dog. Ask yourself what you can do as a trainer to help your dog understand what you want.
If your dog has made the same mistake twice, try a different technique. Repeating the same error again and again has the impact of re-enforcing the behaviour.
Don't focus on what your dog has done wrong – think, what can you do to help your dog? Always end your training session on a positive note.
It helps to choose a command for each obstacle that is short and distinguishes it from other obstacles.
Some examples for names of obstacles are: Jump, Walk, Crossover, Tunnel, Weave, A frame, Teeter or See-saw, Chute, Tire, Box or table
Whatever name you choose for each obstacle, make sure it is distinct and different from the other names you've chosen. Use the same name consistently. Some people even use words like “hup”, “walk it”, “walk up”, “go weave”, “scramble” or “through” for example.
Dogs will often respond to the first sound that comes out of your mouth so try to choose words that sound different from each other.
If you give your dog a command, stick to it. Use short concise words and clear directions. Say what you mean and mean what you say.
A dog's vision is very different from a human, so it makes sense to take that into consideration. Dogs have better vision in low light than humans, but are less able than we are to see fine detail in brighter light. A dog's vision could be compared to high speed photographic film designed for low light situations, which produces a grainier image.
A dog doesn't need to see fine details or colour the way we do. They make up for it with their enhanced sense of smell, better vision in low light and excellent motion vision.
Evidence also suggests that dogs actually don't see in black and white as many people think, but that they have colour vision similar to red/green colour blind people.
That means your dog probably doesn't distinguish between certain shades of red and green and will see all colors as shades of yellow, blue, brown or gray. However, dogs may be better able to differentiate between each subtle shade than people.
It is easier for your dog to see you if you are wearing bright clothing that doesn't blend in with your background. You may want to consider the colour and type of clothing you wear at agility practice and whether it will show up. Bright yellow, and blue may be good choices since they are easily distinguishable to your dog, and won't blend in with a green background if you happen to be outdoors. Certain shades of purple may also work well because they probably show up to a dog as blue.
Dogs also have better peripheral vision than we do. This is why it's so important to be aware of your own subtle body movements that you may not realize your dog perceives. Your dog may also be distracted by distant motion that isn't as noticeable by us humans.
Having a better understanding of your dog's vision can help you judge when your dog might be facing a difficulty not noticeable to humans. Because of the height difference between dogs and humans, you may not notice a potential environmental problem, like sun in the eyes. Also, dogs may not wear glasses but some do have poor vision.
You can be a most effective trainer when you are the centre of your dog's universe! Your dog will respond to the energy you project. Let him know when he has done something well! Everyone likes praise and encouragement, including your dog.
Rewards for a job well done can include food, tug toys, praise, or a simple click if you are using clicker training. When your dog has done something exceptional, let him know he has hit the jackpot with extra treats or rewards!
Body language is the most important form of communication used in dog agility.
You can control what your dog sees by how you move your own body in relation to each obstacle.
Our ability to give commands at the appropriate moment, not too early and not too late, often determines whether a dog will hesitate, rush towards the wrong obstacle, make her own choice or take the desired obstacle.
Timing is crucial for both verbal commands, and for body language.
You will need to think ahead so that you are ready to give your verbal and physical command just at the right moment before your dog makes her own decisions, but not so early that it causes confusion.
Timing for rewards is important also. Rewards are most effective when given as soon as the dog has accomplished her desired task, so that she doesn't mistake the reward for another unrelated behaviour.
Your goal in dog agility is for you and your dog to work together with a series of coordinated and flowing movements. Your pace and speed and your dog's pace and speed will determine the kinds of body movements you use in a given course.
Two of the most basic moves you will need to learn are the Front Cross, and the Rear Cross (which have sometimes varied in name). Regardless of what you call the moves, learning them will help you flow from obstacle to obstacle. With the Front Cross you will start with the dog on one side, move inward to face the dog, to the other side of the dog where you can continue with your dog at your other side. This move is useful in many situations. You can practice this move without obstacles and even without a dog – in fact the more you are confident in your moves, the more your dog will clearly understand your expectations. Use your inward hand to lead, then switch the lead hand as you change sides. The Rear Cross is a cross behind the dog that also is used to indicate a change of direction. Training for this can start with doing a “switch”. Walking with your dog, leading with the hand closest, you turn inward toward your dog and head the opposite way (the direction from which you came). While changing direction you switch your lead hand, motioning with the switched hand in an outward circle away from you For example, with your dog on your left using your left arm to lead, you then change to the opposite direction by switching to the right arm and using a counterclockwise motion to push the dog away from you to bring him to your other side walking the opposite way. If your dog is then on your right side you are using your right arm to lead, then switching to the left arm and making a counter clockwise motion so that your dog changes direction away from you at first and continues to walk with you in the changed direction. It is best to try this move first without a dog to avoid confusion!
Every dog has its own unique learning style, and there is no “one size fits all” way to do agility.
Becoming a good trainer means learning a variety of agility techniques and then seeing what works with your dog. The more challenging the dog, the better trainer you can learn to be!
We all have individual challenges. Each dog requires a slightly different training approach depending on speed, confidence, and personality. Of course, us humans have unique personalities too, and our approach as a handler will depend on our own aptitudes and abilities. Just as some dogs react differently in crowds so do some people, so give yourself a break!
Many people have difficulty remembering courses or conceptualizing body movements and how they translate to the dog… Most people get lost on a course at some time or other. One tip is to visualize the course as smaller groups of sequences instead of trying to remember the whole sequence. This is why scouting the course a few times can be especially important. Everyone learns a bit differently, including our dogs.
When first learning agility, some dogs feel especially stressed, by other new dogs, new people, new surroundings, unfamiliar obstacles and smells. They will also feel stress if they are being pushed too hard to do something they don't understand.
Watch for these possible signs of stress: excessive panting, constant sniffing, refusal to take food, running away, tuning out, and distraction or refusal during a command they normally understand.
Our job as trainers is to lower the stress level and simplify things for the dog. A dog who is excessively stressed or fearful cannot retain anything. The only thing he will learn is that agility is bad.
Be sensitive to your dog's stress level and take all the time you need to make sure that your dog doesn't feel pushed or cornered. Allow him to feel comfortable and familiar with new obstacles and never force him into something that upsets him.
When you sense stress, then take the exercise back to a stage where the dog feels comfortable and continue until his stress level drops significantly.
Simplify exercises, especially when starting. Exercises like teeter and weaves take time and need to be approached in small steps. For example the teeter can be started with the plank on the ground, or by using a square piece of plywood with a ball underneath.
Also, remember the “twice rule”. If it doesn't work after two times, try something else. If the stress level hasn't dropped, then stop and take a break or quit for the day.
End the session on a happy note!
Be aware of your dog's physical limitations. Dogs will often try to please you even when it is uncomfortable. Dogs that are injured, or in pain, should not be playing agility.
If your dog is displaying avoidance tactics, then consider that there may be a physical problem such as hip dysplasia.
Since their growth plates haven't closed yet, dogs that are under 1 year should never jump higher than elbow height. Pups under 6 months old should have the bar on the ground
Be aware that jumping obstacles can put stress on the shoulders and limbs of dogs of any age. Use careful judgement in deciding what and how much your dog can do of these exercises.
Also be aware of potential vision problems or deafness. Sadly, many dogs have been reprimanded by their unknowing humans for a physical ailment that limits the dog's ability.
There are exercises you can do with your dog without even using agility equipment. To work on “send-outs”, take your dog to a location like a school ground or field. Use a target plate, like a plastic container lid and put some of his favorite treats on it. Using a target plate is important because you don't want to teach your dog to sniff the ground looking for tasty treats!
Make him aware of where you have placed the goodies, then take your dog a distance away from them. Use a consistent command like “out” or “go” as his signal to fetch the treats. Repeat the exercise often, but from different angles. If you don't have a field to work with, you can even use a long hallway inside your home. You can work on sending your dog both left and right. The principles are the same.
Fun is the key word in agility! This is more important than a flawless performance by a perfect dog or human. Fun is the purpose of agility – for both you and your dog. Some rewards of dog agility are your dog's focus and attentiveness to your body language and commands. This teaches the dog respect, which you will have earned! Your praise (when timed appropriately) towards your dog when she's done something well can mean the world to her.
Praise works equally well in supporting our human agility. Winning doesn't matter, but support and encouragement by our peers and instructors does! Group spirit makes agility as fun for humans as for dogs!
Today, there are agility trials of many kinds throughout the world for most levels of dogs and trainers. Although not everyone participates in competition, there are some benefits to competing.
When you are ready, testing your skills in public with a qualified judge can be a great learning experience, as well as watching the techniques of other trainers.
The best reward is the enjoyment you and your dog have together. Anything else - ribbons, titles or awards - are insignificant in comparison to the great time you can have and the bond you can develop playing agility!
You have probably figured out by now, that dog agility is just as much or more of a challenge for you, as it is for your dog!
Dog agility is an ever-evolving activity. There are more and more sources of information on agility becoming available through books, videos, and on the internet. The more information you have, the more you can find training that works with your unique dog or dogs.
Try different methods and find out what works best for you and your dog.
Be clear, be creative, consider your dog's point of view and most of all have a ton of fun!